Yet another Asian restaurant is now open for business in Brunswick. Falling on the heels of Little Tokyo, Asian Garden, Bankok Garden, and Aki Sushi, Lemongrass introduces a new brand of Vietnamese cuisine to town.
The restaurant opened last May in the space previously occupied by Bacari, a bistro. As a big fan of Vietnamese cuisine, I hoped Lemongrass would add something new to Brunswick’s culinary scene, but I walked away with mixed feelings.
The interior is fresh and cheerful, with bright green walls, bamboo accents and photographs of scenes from Vietnam. The wait staff is attentive and helpful—quick to suggest dishes and refill drinks.
The menu, though, is limited: It consists of soup, a few appetizers and entrees that are served with meat, tofu or seafood.
The egg rolls—filled with pork, vegetables, and rice vermicelli—are one of the tastier small plates. The two small rolls come with a side of nuoc mam, a sweet and spicy dipping sauce typical of Vietnamese cuisine.
Another intriguing appetizer is the carrot shrimp nest. This deep-fried mix of carrots and shrimp is nicely crispy, but perhaps too heavy for a first course.
I was happy to see a variety of pho on the menu. A staple of Vietnamese fare, the noodle soup is served with herbs, bean sprouts, and usually beef, chicken, or tofu. A friend ordered the rare beef and tendon pho, which arrived steaming hot, accompanied by Thai basil, jalapeno, lime and sriracha.
Lemongrass makes its own pho broth using ginger and star anise for flavor. The soup was tasty, filling and well-priced; the small portion costs $7.95.
The dinner entrees were less impressive. Bland, steamed vegetables were consistent and the medley of broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and onions included in three of the five options highlighted the limits of the menu.
Sauces and seasonings add some variety; a sweet marinade distinguished the chicken coconut delight. A flavorful peanut sauce complimented my main dish of pork pho. The chicken and pork in both dishes were overcooked and rather dry, but the entrées themselves were large and reasonably priced, under twelve dollars.
The highlight of my meal was the coffee, a sweet drink made with condensed milk and domestic Vietnamese coffee.
For dessert, I ordered a fried banana topped with sesame seeds and a light syrup. The half-banana portion was small, but it made for a very tasty end to my meal.
Although my first meal at Lemongrass wasn’t outstanding, the restaurant has potential. I’m particularly excited that báhn mi, a sandwich with Vietnamese-style meats and vegetables on a baguette will soon grace the lunch menu. With its convenient location and attentive staff, Lemongrass is on the right path and I plan to stick with the restaurant as it develops its menu during its first year.
Lemongrass
212 Maine Street
(207) 725-9008
Rating: 2.5 out of 5