I always had an aversion to jeans. Growing up in a family where denim was not a permissible pant to wear to school didn't help. It was not until a stifling summer afternoon in Beverly Hills at Dolce & Gabbana did I come to my senses. Fitted, luxuriously smooth, meticulously stitched, these jeans reflected the quality and comfort I craved from my clothing.
Six years later, I'm still equally content with my purchase; my previously dismissive and haughty attitude toward denim has begun to evolve. Today, I obstinately wear jeans only as a last resort, simply due to the fact that people wear blue jeans far too often. I often find myself cringing at the sea of denim. But simple measures can be taken to avoid a most tragic drowning in this hackneyed ocean. These essential components are: Quality, care, diversity, and style.
Quality: Like all good garments, jeans should be heavily scrutinized before a purchase. Inspect for superior stitching and ensure that the denim is heavy and well-structured. This constitutes high-quality and resilient jeans. Good denim isn't cheap...nor should it be.
Diversity: Jeans don't just come in blue these days. Adding black, grey, midnight blue, white, metallic, sand, or colorful gabardine (which can resemble jean) to your collection of denim is an excellent start. Experiment with different denim washes and dying approaches. On the same note, there is little logic in owning numerous pairs of denim in the same cut.
Keep in mind that some cuts and styles may embrace your body better than others. For example, my birthmother gave me more than I bargained for in the booty department; hence, I wouldn't dream of squeezing into a pair of excessively skinny jeans. Don't force a style, size, or look that doesn't work. I highly recommend a boot-cut or mid-low-rise jeans if you have a long waist and an ultra-low rise if you have a shorter waist. Those with full thighs should opt for a relaxed boot-cut or straight-leg jeans, and if your butt is flat as the new Mac Air, I suggest a lower-rise, straight-leg jean. A few additional varieties and cuts to investigate are flared or cropped jeans.
Care: People's blatant disregard for the upkeep of their jeans irks me more than the over-wearing of jeans. Improper washing and drying of denim leads to fading and accelerated deterioration. Jeans should never be dry-cleaned. Instead, they should be machine-, or preferably hand-, washed in cold water and hung to dry. Do not dry good denim in a machine! Also, avoid over-washing jeans at all costs, as this too is destructive to denim.
Ill-fitting jeans not tailored, cuffed, or rolled to a more appropriate length are dragged, stepped on, and over-frayed. This can look quite sloppy.
Style: I nearly had a stroke when I saw an Italian PR assistant at Milan Fashion Week wearing denim on denim. This naturally is a Fashion Felony, punishable by death! Another, more common error is the un-tucked dress shirt and jeans. Any shirt that is not somewhat even in length all around, should always be tucked?no ifs or buts! Those desiring a more relaxed or informal look should purchase shirts made to be un-tucked, such as military shirts.
If you need to add length to your torso or body, you should avoid t-shirts with jeans, as a collared shirt will elongate the body. Try pairing colors to jeans that don't wash you or your look out. Too often light-wash jeans are matched with unflattering muted, patterned shirts or pale colors. This arrangement can be boring.
Jeans should give the impression of being sharp and not overly relaxed. Although I don't favor distressed denim, if worn, match it with a top that is clean and crisp, like a blazer or shirt and tie. Make your denim look more developed than the unexceptionally paired masses of sweatshirts and tees. Try a vest over a nice tee shirt or a sweater, for instance?effortless, stylish, and comfy. Minimize the cliché jeans-and-sneaks combination. Instead vie for boots, heels, flats, loafers, dress, or boat shoes. This look is fresher and refined. You're not sixteen anymore?so don't look it!
Denim Buying Guide Top 10
Leader of the Pack:
Dolce & Gabbana?The kings of Italian denim know how to mix it up, using gutsy designs and the finest materials and craftsmanship. They fit like a glove! From $250-$650. Visit www.dolcegabbana.it.
'O Rugged One:
Levis?Never underestimate the 'Founding Father' of denim. Timeless, built for life, and with a smarter, revamped design team, Levis is proving it will always be one of the best. From $50-$180. Visit www.levis.com.
Rue Vieille du Temple, Paris:
A.P.C?I would boldly argue that until this label came along, the French had not grasped denim as well as the Italians, Japanese, or Americans. A.P.C creates jeans for the fashion-conscious who are ahead of the trends. From $ 170-200. Visit www.apc.fr.
My Body is a Wonderland:
Genetic Denim?Pun intended, these jeans work to celebrate your body shape, not cover and hide it, by focusing on the construction and fit of the first three top inches of the jeans. Progressive designs incorporate the softest denim around, making it the label to watch out for. Another great brand to consider is Citizens of Humanity. From $143-$220. Visit www.shopgeneticdenim.com.
Advanced Placement:
Rock & Republic?Fantastic styles, comfortable fits, and outstanding quality?Rock & Republic delivers it all. Did your last two pairs of denim from Seven For All Mankind not quite live up to the excellence promised? Then you've found your answer. Also look into Paper Denim. From $180-$350. Visit www.rockandrepublic.com/splash.html.
Art Gallery Set/Maiden Lane, San Francisco:
Helmut Lang?I was thoroughly impressed with the assortment of jeans during my brief viewing of the minimalist, acute, and abstract new collection. The evidence is convincing that the reinstated Helmut Lang label knows exactly where it is going. From $200-$270. Visit www.helmutlang.com.
Via Sant'Andrea, Milano:
Gianfranco Ferré?Produced in limited quantities and selectively sold, these jeans?from my personal favorite designer, who sadly passed away last June?are incredible. Italian style and quality, fused with Ferré's impressive architecture background create masterpieces. But beware! Two glasses of Bollinger later, the charming denim specialist met her monthly quota, and I was left with beautiful white jeans and my finances in irreparable shambles. From $450-$850. Visit www.gianfrancoferre.it.
Bang for the Buck:
Gap?Denim that generally costs less, looks sharp, and is always classic. From $50-$70.Visit www.gap.com
The Active Cosmopolitan/Newbury Street, Boston:
Adriano Goldschmied?A process involving researched fabrics, painstaking attention to detail, and a stylistic focal muse of vintage jeans have made this denim brand a powerhouse for topnotch garments. From $155-$250. Visit www.agjeans.com.
Shibuya Chic, Tokyo:
Evisu?In January, as Italian celebrities, socialites, and the fashion frenzy of press and buyers packed into the stately Cina del Duca in Milano for the Autumn/Winter 2008 show, I found myself dozing off. By the end, I was wide-awake, toasting to how Evisu had mastered jean couture with unmatched gusto, variety, and ingenuity. From $200-$400. Visit www.evisu.com.