Miami, Beijing, Amsterdam, Puerto Rico, Paris, and San Francisco?these are just a few of the milieu that many young globetrotters will flock to this spring.
Although most of these getaways promise more temperate conditions than Maine, the majority of jetsetters will not be quite ready to sport the 2008 Cruise and Spring/Summer collections. Nonetheless, now is the time to purchase! Personally, I will always effusively side with the layered opulence and grandeur of winter garments. But several fashions for this upcoming spring season leave plenty to yearn for. Here is a review of the palettes, materials and looks that rocked the catwalks, as well as a brief, style-conscious Spring 2008 guide.
Printemps Homme:
It's time for progress in men's fashion. Designers are turning to more vibrant colors and patterns for a more refreshing look. Thankfully, risks were taken: high-waist pants, a skinnier silhouette, and shorts paired with blazers. Plaid and checks also popped up frequently on the catwalk.
Yet even bolder were the floral creations of Etro and Duckie Brown, which gave a playful and elegant touch of excitement that often lacks in menswear. One thing is certain: keep incorporating vests?either sweater or button-ups.
Techno and synthetic fabrics are back in high-chic and made strong appearances at 3.1 Phillip Lim, as well as in Milano at Burberry and Moschino, and in Paris at Raf Simons. Still, the wearable luxury linen is still the spring material of choice?but try committing to solid shades.
Aside from the overabundant gray, the primary color of spring is blue, as featured in Paul Smith. Electric blue, sky blue, azure, royal?you name it, blue is sharp! Metallics, gold in particular, will remain very popular, as will electric reds, olive, and black. Sunset accents, like those featured in the Perry Ellis collection and a surprising revival of tie-dye, prevalent at many shows in Milano, are both fresh fashions. However, regulate yourself with these looks, so that your style doesn't become campy.
Beau Brummel:
Etro: Kean Etro used the jungle flora as inspiration for his whimsical and vibrant styles. Elaborate floral, paisley, or stripes either covered or accented impeccably tailored silk, tweed, linen, and cashmere suits, shorts, sweaters and dress shirts. Milanese fashion at its fiercest and finest comes at $175-$3,000 (Visit www.etro.it).
Duckie Brown: Perhaps the label that will put an end to the dull and overly cautious aspect of American men's fashion, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver's hot label wowed the press and buyers at its September show in Manhattan. Large, Cuban-style floral blooms and gold mesh tops were highlights in my book, as were the calmer, more versatile suits, shorts, trenches, and tops in tones of canary yellows, whites, fandango and charcoals. It will set you back about $250-$1,500 to be atop your game here (Visit http://www.duckiebrown.com/home.html).
Young Dandy:
Y-3: In it's fifth year, Y-3, a collaboration of the über talented Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, presented a mix of drawstring pants, flowing jackets, and high attitude techno sleeveless vests. A collection that truly plays homage to the fit and urban gent on the go. These deluxe designs costs from $75-$450 (Visit www.eluxury.com).
Marc by Marc Jacobs: Marc's standard hipster, abstract, chic- something for everyone! A great place to begin, priced from $24-$800 (Visit www.marcjacobs.com).
Printemps Femme:
This season's looks embrace a truly fitted feminine cut with a higher waist, and a full range of powerfully rich colors and patterns, which embody the lushness of flora. Labels such as Prada, Christian Lacroix, Balenciaga and Stella Cadente took this to heart by showing extravagant flower compositions. My favorite look; Greek Goddess-styled dresses, either in toga cut, knotted, or draped, turned heads at Versace, Jasmine di Milo, and Lanvin.
Lastly, there was the image of a holiday at Biarritz. Think 1940s in shape, with shades of white, terracotta, black, and electric or tribal accents. Skimpy is always classed-up with light safari or sleeveless jackets, crepe or silk shawls, or thick, solid cardigans. These were precisely the looks set forth by Temperley London, Milly, and Tuleh.
While the standard luxurious materials of organza, tulle, silk, fine linen, and chiffon remain constant, there is an evolution from the heavy beading and plumage of winter to a more lightly textured and ruffled, transparency of materials. This was the slightly abstract vision presented by Marc Jacobs and Luca Luca.
As for the spring palette? One need not look any further than the extravagant plumage of the aggressive peacock. This was best exemplified in the collections of Lanvin and Reem Acra, which incorporated strong hues of eggplant, emerald, yellow Hibiscus, coral, cherry, and onyx. On the other end of the spectrum was the plumage of a peahen, such as fatigued shades of jade, white, and gray?the last having been overrepresented at shows, especially in New York.
Independent Woman:
Balenciaga: Nicholas Ghesquière's brilliance shined once again for the house of Balenciaga with his armor-and bell-shaped designs in a myriad of vibrant blooms. Sadly, these topstitched floral jackets, mini skirts, dresses and skintight techno suits begin at around $8,000 (Visit www.balenciaga.com).
Rodarte: Iridescent sapphire, crèmes, lime, ocher, argent, and blacks cascaded in silk butterfly pleats, layered organza, chiffon, and lingerie?like painstaking designs on Rodarte's runway. It costs big to look this refined: $400-$7,000 (Visit http://www.kirnazabete.com).
Débutante:
Milly by Michelle Smith: Jovial floral patterns, elegant cruise wear, and comfortable cocktail attire, perfect for the young and successful. Styles hover between $150-$600 (Visit www.saks.com).
Michael by Michael Kors: The classic American style and ideologies of Michael Kors, with more forgiving materials and prices. Your best bet for holiday chic from $46-$300 (Visit http://shop.nordstrom.com).