The taste of autumn

Alcoholin' with Collin: Taster's debate: Is Belfast Bay Ale robust or a bust?

At the end of an eventful Tuesday, my three tasters and I convene in Brunswick S-Hummer for a serious undertaking: beer time. Our job is to taste and critique beer in the service of our beloved Orient, and we know that the welfare of the Bowdoin community is at stake.

Alcoholin' with Collin: When in an Irish pub, drink as the Irish do

Picture yourself walking into a charming Irish pub. In one corner, you see a scraggly fiddler spurting out Celtic-inspired jigs, fueling the group of dancers huddled around. Along the bar, a white-bearded sage ruminates over his wooden pipe and shares his wisdom among those within listening range. Glasses are raised and clinked together, and laughter abounds. A plump, rosy-cheeked bartender gives you a wink and asks, "What's it gwin' t'be?" It's decision time. You ask yourself, "Which beer best fits this scenario?"

Alcoholin' with Collin

This piece represents the opinion of the author:

September 28, 2007

The time for Brunswick S-Hummer's Tuesday night beer tasting extravaganza is upon us again, and troop morale is dangerously low. One of my previous tasters, "Dr. P," tells me he may show up, but only for a bit. Despite leaving numerous, desperate voicemail messages, I can't track down my second taster, "the Gumster." Finally a solid, confident knock at the door tells me my prospects are looking up. Tonight, we induct a new taster into our ranks: He calls himself "the Resident Cowboy" (also known as "Mule Skinner"). With his arrival there's no choice but to saddle up, partner?we've got some tasting to do.

Tonight's beer: Geary's Autumn Ale ($7.99 for a sixer at your local 7-Eleven). The Cowboy and I are immediately impressed by the beer's pour: deep brown with amber hues and a slightly off-white, Cool Whip-like head. Its aroma is distinct: slightly fruity and caramelized. The Autumn's magical bubbles begin to permeate our spirits, and all of our worldly concerns melt into the air.

As we are ruminating over our first few sips, both the Gumster and Dr. P show up in full vigor. With the troops at full strength, we can really get down to tasting.

We proceed to taste and discuss, and what becomes clear is that we are all struck by the beer's nuttiness. Though this "subtle, nut-like flavor" is Autumn Ale's most prominent characteristic, it is not excessive, which prevents one from considering it too "round" or dull on the palate. It is slightly more carbonated compared to other brown ales, and its careful combination of Cascade, Golding, and Fuggle hops produces a hint of floral bitterness that is by no means overwhelming (the Gumster aptly notes that he's not getting the "bitter beer face"). These lively features perfectly offset the soft nuttiness to produce a beer that is at once inviting and punchy. Geary's has also managed to craft a welcoming and drinkable ale despite a relatively high alcohol by volume (ABV) of 5.8 percent.

Complexity and solidity of taste within one tasting session is an important factor in your overall experience of the beer. If you're paying careful attention to this fine beer's taste, you'll notice that it changes from moment to moment. For example, the hops define the initial bite of the aftertaste, fade away as quickly as they appear, and finally reappear in the form of a calm, reassuring simmer. Likewise, your second Autumn Ale may seem to take on a "personality" quite distinct from that of your first. Also, be mindful of where you locate the different features of taste?bitterness, sweetness, maltiness?on your palate.

Our Cowboy notices how the natural increase in temperature from the first to last sip brings out flavors that the coldness would otherwise have stifled (it appears he's a quick learner, so we congratulate him accordingly). Chocolate overtones and increasingly pronounced hops enliven your spirits. It is almost as if this beer engages you in an active conversation.

In the words of Dr. P, Geary's Autumn Ale is the ideal "pint drinking" beer, and consequently not well-suited for chugging: "I wouldn't want to beer bat this..."

The Gumster suggests using it as a complement to intellectual work. "You know when you're plodding through some joke problem set on a weeknight? Drinking one or two of these should be mandatory for work like that."

The major drawback of Geary's Autumn Ale is that it is a seasonal brew, meaning that it is available only from August through November. According to the Geary's Web site, the Autumn Ale is a "faithful reinterpretation of the classic brown ales of Great Britain." If the Autumn Ale is just Geary's name for their version of an English brown ale, why restrict its production to autumn? As the tasters discuss this point, the Gumster adds, "Why should this be the beer we drink this time of year? It doesn't really make me want to go out and rake leaves."

The final word: Geary's Autumn Ale, with its complexity of nuttiness and hops, is a worthy American-made addition to Great Britain's rich tradition of brown ales. An ideal choice for the pub, it reflects the class and hospitality of the English: understated, refined, and welcoming (8.5 out of 10). Though unfortunately produced only in autumn, its character happens to complement this beautiful time in Maine quite well. Bottoms up with Autumn Ale, and cheers to Fall Break.

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