Beer has become overwhelming. There are over 4,000 breweries in the U.S. alone, each with a long line of unique styles. From the NASCAR Keystone pounder to the snobbiest nanobrewery connoisseur, there is no all-encompassing definition of a beer drinker. With this ever-expanding spectrum, even the most casual of beer drinkers feels the pressure to know how to tell the difference between Heady Topper and a Natty Daddy. No longer are words like “nice,” “smooth” or “ew” sufficient; instead, “hoppy,” “dry” and “effervescent” have entered the sipping vernacular.

In an effort to expand our own horizons, this week we’ve decided to stray from our previously-trodden path of mass-produced lagers like Kingfisher, Budweiser and that Soviet swill from our last column and instead, venture into the world of craft brewing.

During the Raj’s rule in India, there wasn’t a whole lot for the Brits to do besides play cricket, increase taxes and get their buzz on. While we commonly credit them for the antimalarial quinine-containing concoction that we now call a Gin and Tonic, there is another beverage for which we can thank our friends across the pond. In order for beer to stay fresh on the ships from London to Bombay, English breweries produced the India Pale Ale, a beer that was chock-full of one of beer’s primary ingredients: hops.

If you take a whiff of an India Pale Ale, or IPA, your nose will likely be met with a floral, sometimes bitter scent, perhaps with hints of citrus or pine. Those are the hops, the flowers of the hop plant that are used to flavor and stabilize beer, and this addictive aroma has helped lead to the IPA taking off in the craft-brew scene across the U.S.

As it seems like every state prides itself in one brewery’s IPA or another, and since we do not have the time to review them all, we have chosen an IPA from Maine and one from California in an effort to explore a coast-to-coast comparison of this hoppy style. With Shan’s car having broken down in Portland, this week we made our lemons into a Leinenkugel and ventured into the Craft Beer Cellar in the Old Port. We sought out the help of the store owner who pointed us in the direction of the most obscure Maine craft beer in the place: Marsh Island Brewing’s Downrigger IPA.

When poured into our glasses, this Orono-brewed IPA presented itself with a warm, slightly cloudy amber color and a light head that lingered as we sipped. As we took a long sniff, we were struck by a wave of hops. The hoppy aroma is a byproduct of a step called dry hopping, during which hops are added to the beer after the initial boiling process. As we took our first sips with great ceremony, we were surprised by the subtlety of the hoppy flavor. The Downrigger held interesting floral notes with a caramelized-orange tang, and the inevitable bitterness only appeared as a subsequent aftertaste. The 6.8% ABV became harsher as the beer warmed, a feature that did not earn any plaudits from this week’s guest taster, Mr. Evan Bulman.

Representing the West Coast was the Enjoy By Black IPA from Stone Brewing Co. in Escondido, Calif. Enjoy By is produced only a few times a year and, as the name suggests, is intended to be consumed quickly after brewing for optimal freshness. This particular batch was called “Enjoy By 02.14.16,” and while The Craft Beer Cellar’s owner assured us that these extra two weeks would not affect the beer’s flavor, we do concede that he may have wisely seized an opportunity to convince two novice beer drinkers to help clear his inventory.

The first word that sprung to our minds when we took our first sniff of Enjoy By was “dank.” As earthy as it was hoppy, this beer poured a deep, dark brown that barely allowed any light to pass through. Like the Downrigger, Enjoy By retained a thin foamy head; however, it clung to the sides of the glass in a way that the Downrigger did not. In spite of its heavy alcohol content (a whopping 9.4% ABV), Enjoy By was incredibly drinkable, likely a side effect of the malty flavor that hits as soon as it touches your tongue. Malts, which are sugars that aid in the fermentation process of beer brewing, help to sweeten beer to give it some of its yeasty, sometimes bread-like flavor. Enjoy By also was more hop-forward than Downrigger, with piney hops that played a starring role in the beer’s flavor as well as its smell.

These two IPAs were about as different on the taste buds as they are on the map. However, they did serve to represent two sides of the IPA spectrum. If we were to render a final verdict, we agreed that while Enjoy By offered a unique spin on what an IPA can be, we felt that the Downrigger was a through and through, approachable IPA for beer drinkers of all walks of life.