The Bowdoin Orient

Susan Tarpinian, proprietor of Morning Glory Natural Food Store, has been in the health food market for 42 years. Her study of nutrition, and upbringing in the natural-food savvy Pacific Coast, lead her to enter the industry. We met with the charismatic entrepreneur at her shop on Maine Street, where she told us about her experiences navigating the ins and outs of food supply. 

When Tarpinian moved to Maine in the ’70s, there were no health food stores in sight. She saw an opportunity to start a natural store of her own in Brunswick, hoping to emulate the local food movement that was raging on the West Coast. 

Thirty-three years later, Morning Glory has become a beacon for health foodies in the area and beyond—costumers come from Bath, Bowdoinham and Harpswell.

“Bowdoin students make up a great deal of our clientele, too,” said Tarpinian.

She added that the grandchildren of many of her first customers are now shopping at Morning Glory. 

The aisles of the grocery are brimming with fresh organic produce, colorful displays of handmade soap and specialty products such as lamb jerky or dark chocolate covered rice cakes. The variety and quality of such a small store, which is soon to expand, is astounding. 

She pointed out some of her favorite items that stock the shelves, including a Maine-made corn salsa, mentioning, “I try to sell as many local products as possible.” Yogurts and cheeses from nearby dairies and fresh bread and pastries from proximate bakers are abundantly available to costumers. Not only are her goods sourced locally, they also meet a certain required health standard.

“We get a volume discount from distributors because we buy so much natural food,” explains Tarpinian. Therefore, the prices for natural products are cheaper than those at competing standard grocery stores—a box of Annie’s Mac and Cheese sells for $2.99 at Hannaford’s, while Morning Glory charges $1.49.

Perhaps the most unique part of Tarpinian’s health food oasis is the mass quantities of self-serve snack foods and ingredients in the rear of her shop. 

“Bulk food is very popular, because it’s a better deal,” said the store owner. 

There is a wide variety of grains, beans and granola. The bulk foods section also contains a large stock of nuts, seeds and dried fruits.

The staff decides what foods to stalk based on customer trends. Recently, Tarpinain said coconut has been a popular item, and so the store now carries several types. 

She suggested we peruse the area to choose ingredients to fashion a trail mix of our own. After fixating on the endless options, we selected our favorite ingredients: 

 Bear-Mix-1/2 cup almonds-1/2 cup pecans-1/4 cup fruit-sweetened dried cranberries-1/4 cup pumpkin seeds -1/3 cup coconut (toast in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes for added crunch)-1/4-1/2 cup dark chocolate chips 

“I like to sell things that are fun, not just your groceries,” Tarpinian said. 

She sells quirky, nontraditional items, like whittled wooden salad bowls and patterned woolen socks. 

Tarpinian’s love for her trade shows upon entering her shop on Maine Street, as every item is carefully chosen and shelved for imminent customer purchase. 

“Everyday I wake up and can’t wait to get here,” she said. “And I never want to retire!” 

Morning Glory Natural Foods is open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday.

Just two years ago, self-taught baker and donut connoisseur Leigh Kellis couldn’t find a decent donut in Portland.

“She wanted to create a donut that she would feel good feeding her children,” said her brother-in-law Jeff Buckwalter. 

Kellis decided to take a direct approach. A bartender by trade, she opened a cookbook one day and started experimenting with potato pastries. 

Enoteca Athena, a new restaurant and wine bar, joins The Little Dog Coffee Sshop, Little Tokyo and Little Saigon on Maine Street, as the little sister Tratorria Athena, a Parents’ Weekend favorite. 

Enoteca Athena has the same cozy atmosphere and locally-sourced Mediterranean cuisine as the Trattoria, minus the trek to Fort Andross and the strain on your wallet. The restaurant is both a wine bar offering small bites to share and a sit-down restaurant with salads, appetizers and main courses. 

Jenna Bowley, a bartender and waitress at the eatery, highlights their emphasis on sourcing food locally.