So I guess it's time I wrote a positive thing or two about an eatery in the greater Brunswick area, and because I rarely even speak in positive terms, this might prove difficult.
This week's review features Trattoria Athena, a small Greek-Italian establishment located a block behind The Great Impasta (skip it) on Mill Street. The bright, homey dining room is small, but comfortable: a good place for Parents Weekend or date night.
Menu items are simple, but refined, and a substantial list of specials is scribbled across a large chalkboard on the wall. You have to order a starting assortment of Greek spreads off the menu, but the extra order is well worth the price. This is no Vegan-Under-the-Sun-Bar hummus table, but a delicious assortment of shmears such as taramasalata and skorthalia, a flavorful blend of potato, garlic and olive oil.
The appetizers seem to lean more toward the Italian half of the restaurant's DNA. Standouts are the classic beef carpaccio, dressed well and served correctly. The tasty arancini—fried risotto balls—are a cheesy, comforting and warm must-get dish. More adventurous palettes may opt for a healthy portion of dolmathes, grape leaves stuffed with meat and rice. Though the dish was served properly, the meat was a little dry.
What sets this eatery apart from most other upscale restaurants in Brunswick is its selection of game such as rabbit and wild boar. The lamb is braised in lemon and garlic to make for a perfect Greek-inspired osso bucco.
The goat pieces are cubed and tossed in a tangy tomato and feta cheese sauté and served over couscous. Come for the meat dishes, but don't write off the homemade pastas.
There is always a ravioli and a pasta dish on the specials menu that rarely disappoint. On the menu, the pappardelle is soft and tender, but not too far beyond a respectable al dente. The wide noodle is tossed in a local tomato-based duck ragu with porcini mushrooms. The flavors are strong, and I recommend this dish for a palette that is not too averse to salt.
Unlike the previous venues this column has reviewed, Trattoria Athena might leave a dent in the wallet. But the prices are fair for a restaurant that serves delicious food with upscale ingredients. Appetizers run anywhere from $6 to $10 while a main course will set you back $18 to $24. In terms of upscale dining in Brunswick, Trattoria Athena is a Mediterranean gem, a diamond in the rough that should let its light shine.
Taste: 4.5 stars
Value: 3.5 stars
Authenticity: 4 stars
Overall: 4.5 stars