Chances are, unless you are a first year, you have probably eaten at least once at Frontier Café, located in Fort Andross. If you haven't, you are missing out.
Frontier Café occupies a massive space overlooking the Androscoggin River. It has several large communal tables, a cozy couch area, and even a small cinema often used to show foreign films and documentaries.
Frontier is also adjacent to the Coleman Burke Gallery, which is currently showing an exhibit called "Salt Water Farm" featuring Bowdoin students and alumni. Frontier is a beautifully-designed space that makes use of its even-more-beautiful view.
The pleasant décor is not the main reason, however, for you to make the relatively short trek down to Frontier. Nor is the main reason Frontier's staff, who all look as though they could have been that kid who lived in a tent on Potter Street his senior year at Bowdoin.
The food, which emphasizes local and organic products, is generally outstanding. I often opt for Frontier's panini. The selection changes frequently to reflect the produce in season. The sweet potato and goat cheese panini, served in a spinach wrap, is particularly delicious. Look for it in the fall and winter; it is a creative and delicious lunch choice.
The mozzarella, tomato and pesto panini is also very good, though Frontier sometimes includes melted provolone cheese, which is unnecessary and significantly detracts from the taste. I recently had the aubergine panini, which is filled with roasted eggplant, ricotta cheese, red peppers and arugula. It was wonderful and was made even better by the bread (which comes from a Portland landmark, Standard Baking Company).
Frontier's market plates are a unique feature of its menu. Each plate, served on a large wooden cutting board, offers a tasting of a specific cuisine. The Italian market place, for instance, includes typical antipasti: olives, marinated artichokes, mozzarella, roasted red peppers and prosciutto. The French plate offers a French cheese, crusty bread, radishes, cornichons and charcuterie. The Middle Eastern plate is a typical mezze fare with chickpeas, hummus and pita bread.
Frontier also has a delicious cheese plate comprised of mostly locally produced cheeses along with Belgian chocolate, figs and French bread. The market plates are perfect for sharing and would be a great appetizer for a group.
Other options at Frontier include the two or three soup options, which change almost daily. I have tried their roasted red peppers soup and found it to be boring and slightly acidic. The orzo and pesto soup was quite oily and, as a result, left a friend feeling nauseated. Frontier's Israeli couscous is also quite oily, though I still find it to be very tasty.
Frontier also has homemade baked goods. Some are quite tasty, like the white chocolate macadamia nut cookie and a delicious chocolate cake with chocolate ganache icing. In general though, I find their sweet options to be a little dry.
Frontier serves wine and beer with a focus on local products. Their list of beers in particular is extensive and includes several Maine beers. Their beers on tap are definitely worth trying. Frontier's selection of yuppie drinks is also extensive—Izzy sodas, organic Maine root beer and Pellegrino galore!
If you just need to get some studying done and are sick of Hawthorne-Longfellow Library, grab a tea at Frontier and spread out in front of the big picture windows. Frontier has a wide variety of loose-leaf tea served in a French press. Their hot chocolate is also very good—extremely chocolaty and rich. In short, it's a great place to grab a drink and spend an afternoon or a Saturday catching up on work.
The flaw at Frontier is the wait time. You place your order at a counter near the door and pay at a separate counter. Once you order, you will likely have to wait a while for your food. So, if you go to Frontier hungry, be prepared for an unpleasant 30 minutes of watching other people eat.
Frontier is often closed at night for private parties so it would be a good idea to call ahead of time if you are planning to go for dinner, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. They are closed on Sundays.
Events coming up at Frontier include: the Steve Grover Quintet's CD release concert featuring jazz interpretations of The Beatles songbook (tonight, $12), a performance by Dos Canosos y Amigos featuring Latin/jazz music (Saturday, Oct. 23, 7 p.m.), a presentation of seven short "made in Maine" horror films (Saturday, Oct. 30, 5 p.m., $7), and a performance by the Pete Kilpatrick Band (Saturday, Oct. 30, 8 p.m., $12), among others.
Frontier Café
14 Maine St.Mill 3—Fort Andross
Brunswick, ME 04011
(207)-725-5222
Atmosphere: 5 out of 5 stars.
Food: 3.5 out of 5 stars.