This article was originally conceived as a showdown between Maine Street's two Indian eateries, Shere Punjab and Bombay Mahal. But despite having never eaten at the latter, I am ready to declare a winner. Shere Punjab, with its buttery daal, its delightfully spare interior and its Bollywood mood music has won my heart—sorry Justin Bieber, you've got competition.
True, the atmosphere leaves something to be desired—specifically, lighting that doesn't resemble that of a kindergarten classroom. The bathroom too could use some updating. But Shere Punjab's interior allows one to concentrate on tasting what I can only imagine, having never traveled within a thousand miles of India's northernmost province, must be the best Indian cuisine on this side of Chandigarh, Punjab's capital.
It is Shere Punjab's daal makhani, yellow lentils fried with tomato and butter, that cemented my loyalty. It is wonderfully buttery, rich and soupy. Its thin consistency requires some rice or naan as an accompaniment. When away from Brunswick, I have actually dreamt about this dish. It is without a doubt the best daal I have ever had the pleasure of tasting.
For a heartier option from the "Vegetarian Delights" section of Shere Punjab's menu, go with the chana masala: chick peas cooked in a tomato-based sauce with a number of spices. This dish offers a little more heat and will leave your tongue tingling. It's substantial enough to be eaten on its own, without rice or naan.
Another meatless favorite is their aloo gobhi, cauliflower and potato with onions, ginger, and spices. It is quite mild and very tasty, a perfect side to a spicy meat dish.
The butter chicken is a delicious choice for those with carnivorous cravings. You will need lots of naan to wipe your plate because this dish is all about the buttery sauce. Like the daal makhani, Shere Punjab's butter chicken is rich and filling. For spice lovers, go with the lamb curry which can be made as mild or spicy as you like. The curry sauce is light and flavorful and the lamb is always well-cooked.
If the food isn't enough to draw you in, Shere Punjab's hospitality certainly will. The website declares, "We treat our customers as a guest. A guest, in India, is considered a representative sent by God. This is the basic principle of Shere Punjab." And one is certainly treated like a representative of God, if not by the eager waitstaff, then by the friendly owner who, once sent me home with instructions and supplies from his kitchen to make papadum, the thin lentil flour cracker served with chutney before the meal.
For lovers of Indian cuisine or for first timers, Shere Punjab has much to offer. While I would not recommend it for a romantic evening, it is perfect for a dinner out with a big group or for take-out on a study night. The food here simply cannot be beat; Bombay Mahal never stood a chance.
Atmosphere: ** (two of five stars)
Food: **** 1/2 (four and a half of five stars).
Hours: Mon - Thur, 5 - 9; Fri - Sat, 4 - 10; Sun 4 - 9:30
Entrees range from $9.95 to $14.95, Bowdoin students get 10 percent off.