It pours like motor oil, coating the glass with a dark tan head and a sticky lace. Complex aromas of chocolate, espresso, dark fruit and anise waft your way and overwhelm the senses. Is this thick, brooding concoction meant to be drunk or poured into your engine after checking the dipstick? (Hint: your car probably won't be able to appreciate the flavor.)
There is no reason to be afraid of dark beer. Under that intimidating, opaque façade is a delicious brew. Just like dark chocolate or your favorite espresso drink, dark beer can be tasty, comforting and gratifying. Although dark beer may be an acquired taste, it is something that every beer drinker should enjoy and try at least once.
The two major varieties of dark beer—excluding dark Belgian ales and German Doppelbocks and Schwarzbier—are porter and stout. However, the difference between these two beer styles is ambiguous at best. Some beer experts draw the line at roasted barley: stouts always include it, whereas porters never do. Yet this does not explain the use of roasted barley in the brewing of some American porters.
In the end, the distinction is not especially important aside from a brewer's desire to subscribe to a particular historical tradition. In 18th century England, porter was the style of ale popular among dockworkers ("porters") because of its rich, satisfying character. Stout came along later as a stronger or "stouter" version of the porter. Since then the terms have been bandied about and used to describe a variety of ales ranging from dark brown to opaque black in color.
The shadowy shade of these ales is strongly linked to the kind of malt used in the brewing process. Aside from water, hops and yeast, malt is one of the main, if not the most important components of beer. The amount of malt determines a beer's mouthfeel and heaviness. Much like a roasted coffee bean, barley can be "cooked" to various degrees of color and flavor. Stout is always made with roasted barley, which is very dark in color, contributing to the beer's black hue. Other types of grain commonly used in brewing dark beer include chocolate malt, black malt and oats.
The world of porter and stout can be confusing and murky. Some robust porters are heavier and more roasty than certain stouts. Alcoholic strengths can range from under five percent for beers like Guinness, to nine or ten percent for some Imperial Stouts, but that's a beer style that merits its own article. Basically, a brewery can throw together any combination of water, yeast, hops and dark malts and then name it depending upon the brewer's own definitions of the two styles.
This beer geek likes to think of porter as a mellower version of stout, with a medium body that emphasizes smoothness. Stouts are heavier and all about smoky, roasted flavors and acidic tanginess. There is a huge variety in both categories, so it's probably best to wade through this dense, dark world on your own, discovering your preferences along the way. Oodles of complex, savory flavor await. Here are three of my personal favorites.
Smuttynose Baltic Porter
Smuttynose Brewing in Portsmouth, New Hampshire is one of the premier breweries in New England. They craft a variety of styles, ranging from old standbys like Finestkind IPA to the seasonal Big Beer Series. One of Smuttynose's twelve seasonal "Big Beers," the Baltic Porter is a stronger beer that borders on an Imperial Stout, but without the extreme qualities and alcoholic heat. Compared to a standard porter, the mouthfeel is heavier, with more dark fruit in the flavor profile.
Cadillac Mountain Stout
Here's a stout worthy of Maine's brewing tradition. Cadillac Mountain Stout is crafted by Bar Harbor Brewing and is a prime example of the dry stout style. The flavor is well-balanced between a mellow, English hop character and rich, roasted malt. With an acidic tanginess and aftertaste reminiscent of dark roasted coffee, this stout is not too sweet, but there is an underlying dark sugar maltiness. This is one of the best beers made in Maine, hands down. Pick up a bomber next time you're at Uncle Tom's.
Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast
Mikkeller is the Dane Mikkel Borg Bjergso, a self-proclaimed "gypsy brewer" who crafts his beers at various breweries throughout Europe and North America. Beer Geek Breakfast is a hybrid between an oatmeal and coffee stout. The use of rolled oats in addition to malted barley lends a smoothness to the beer, while the inclusion of real coffee compliments the roasted barley flavors. This is a bold, delicious stout, one of the best I've come across. Mikkel even makes a stronger "brunch" version of this stout brewed with authentic Vietnamese weasel coffee, a specialty bean harvested from the droppings of apparently caffeine-deprived rodents. I s*** you not.