Allagash brewers concoct beers for all palates

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The Beer Geek

Allagash brewers concoct beers for all palates

This piece represents the opinion of the author:

Mac Evans

Columnist

October 17, 2008

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If someone were to ask me which beer they should try to get a sense of a craft beer, a Maine microbrew, or an example of a modern Belgian beer, I would recommend Allagash Brewing for each. I'm somewhat partial here?not only is Allagash my all-time favorite beer?but I have also worked at the brewery for the past two years.

Belgian beers have always been popular amongst beer geeks, but recently their popularity has attracted the casual drinker. Beer has been brewed in Belgium since the Middle Ages by Trappist monks. With breweries in operation for almost two centuries, one can assume they were doing something right. For almost two decades, Allagash brewing has strived to bring back experimentation with craft brewing as well as revitalize the ancient brewing methods of Belgium. Since its opening, Allagesh has created many different varieties of ale, including "Lyon's Folly," an accidental brew stemming from the actions of Bowdoin alumnus Pat Lyons '06.

Allagash's flagship beer is Allagash White. It is based on traditional Belgian wheat beers, and is a fair contender with modern Belgian Wit beers. It pours cloudy, and unless on-tap, is bottle-conditioned before making its voyage to the marketplace. White is good for all seasons and occasions, with all the deliciousness a beer should have without the overly complex overtones of sourness or hoppiness that may turn off the everyday drinker. It is brewed with spices that leave subtle hints in the beer's final taste, along with some overtones of fruit. I highly recommend it for anyone willing to try to expand their beer horizons and even for those who already have?it remains a very drinkable beer that warrants having another.

Those willing to explore a little more can try Allagash's other classic brews, Dubbel and Tripel. Dubbel is a darker and more complex beer with a malty taste and a dry finish. If White seems too light, Dubbel is full of flavor and interest while keeping a balanced overall presentation. For a dark beer it is kind of thin, but is an excellent pairing to food and an appropriate replacement for someone who isn't a fan of wine with dinner. Tripel is a stronger beer but it has a taste that goes from tropical fruit to peppery without ever touching the alcohol. Like the other classic ales, it is quite drinkable and is an excellent choice among friends.

Once you've tried out the classics, it is only natural to sample some of Allagash's special brews. They are pricier, but so is a good bottle of wine.

The brewers of Allagash have tried many different tricks and techniques common and uncommon to brewing, including aging their beer in barrels, using different strains of yeast or spices meant for wines and foods, and playing with the carbonation of the beer to mimic that of champagne. Some beers to try include:

Four: Brewed with four malts, four sugars, four hops, and four yeast strains. A darker beer with many layers of flavors.

Black: This Belgian-style stout that was originally a trial run but is now a leading member of the Allagash family. It gives Guinness a run for its money.

Fluxus: The recipe changes yearly. Originally brewed with Yarrow and now with ginger, it is an excellent pairing to Thai food and embodies Allagash's changing nature as a brewery.

The barrel-aged beers, most notably Curieux, are also worth trying. Curieux is another experiment gone right. The brewers age the Tripel Ale in Jim Bean barrels for eight months. During this time the beer transforms and takes on characteristics of the barrel. There are soft coconut and vanilla flavors, not to mention the bourbon essence. This beer is quite strong, partly due to the bourbon taste, but it adds to the overall taste and experience of this beer, making it my favorite beer to date.

Allagash has done well for itself. It can be found in most grocery stores around Maine, with some of the special brews found at beer and wine shops down Maine Street.

Beyond Maine, Allagash ships nationally as far as California, and the head brewer has even shipped himself to Belgium in a sort of exchange program to produce new beers between two breweries.

Also in the works at the brewery is a lambic ale, a product of spontaneous fermentation under the direction of mother nature as much as the brewers.

The brewery is located in Portland, and they sell all their current beers as well as provide daily tours of the facilities.

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