Each year in Maine we await fall with the knowledge that it will bring colorful leaves, brisk temperatures, and shorter days. Each year in Germany fall is accompanied by what is most likely the world's biggest celebration of beer and food. I think it would be safe to say that the Germans anticipate fall with a little more intensity.
Oktoberfest was started almost 200 years ago in celebration of the marriage of a king, and it has continued to grow into one of the world's largest parties. In a typical year, 5.9 million people visit Munich, Germany, to partake in the celebration, consuming an average of 5.7 million liters (1.5 million gallons) of beer, 438,810 sausages, and 459,259 roast chickens according to the Lowenbrau Web site.
The typical style of beer commonly associated with Oktoberfest is known as Marzen, German for "March," the month in which its brewing begins. Typically a high-gravity beer (gravity referring to the specific gravity of the unfermented beer, a measure of the amount of fermentable sugars), the relatively high alcohol content ensured the beer would keep as it fermented and aged over the summer months leading to the fall. Along with its high alcohol by volume (ABV), Marzen is also typically amber or red in color, full-bodied and rich.
In choosing the beers to review for this article, I decided upon a unique comparison, pitting Lowenbrau, an "oktoberfestbier" imported from Germany, against Harpoon Octoberfest, an autumn offering from one of New England's premier large-scale craft breweries. It would seem fitting to have reviewed these beers in a manner befitting Oktoberfest, consuming them in relatively high quantities out of liter-sized steins or perhaps even a glass boot accompanied by bratwurst and soft pretzels while wearing lederhosen. Limited by a lack of appropriate costumes and glassware, I decided instead to pick up on another essential aspect of Oktoberfest: social drinking. Assembling a crack team of fellow beer enthusiasts, I was able to enjoy and discuss these two beers in the proper celebratory fashion.
Lowenbrau Oktoberfestbier
Lowenbrau makes no effort to hide the fact that it is one of the official beers of Oktoberfest. The label proudly displays a picture of a large Oktoberfest tent, with text assuring the drinker that the beer is imported from Munich and has been brewed since 1383. Technically classified as a Munich-style lager, the Lowenbrau is brewed with wheat in addition to malted barley.
The Lowenbrau pours a very pale yellow with moderate head formation, reminiscent of an American light beer. The nose is grainy with some slightly wheaty characteristics. Scott Caras '08 noted a slightly sweet and sour apple smell, characteristic of many beers brewed with wheat. Upon first sip, the initial flavors were much stronger and more pronounced than expected, with a spicy malt sweetness yielding to a grainy, very clean middle. Hop characteristics were subtle but balanced well with the slightly sour, wheaty finish. Max Key '08 described his initial impression as "Octobery," while Andrew Sinnenberg '08 described the Lowenbrau as "coming on strongly, intimidating yet approachable."
Overall, we were surprised at the beer's relatively high 6.1 percent ABV. Although it exhibited strong and distinct flavors, the Oktoberfestbier was overall very smooth, clean, and drinkable. The tasters ranked the drinkability (and its fun-loving cousin, "chugability") of the beer as one of its chief attributes. Although not as dark or full-bodied as a typical Oktoberfest Marzen, the Lowenbrau is undoubtedly a beer capable of being celebrated and enjoyed.
Harpoon Octoberfest
Harpoon is one of my favorite New England breweries, offering a host of American-style ales such as its incredible IPA. In addition, Harpoon offers such German styles as its UFO and Raspberry UFO hefeweizen beers and a Munich dark. Available from August to October, the Octoberfest occupies the fall quadrant of Harpoon's seasonal series. Considering the abundance of specific fall or autumn ales produced by many of Harpoon's competitors such as Geary's Autumn Ale and Red Hook Late Harvest, it is interesting that Harpoon chose to rely solely on its Octoberfest to lure the autumn flavor-seeking consumers. If the leaves on the label are any indication, the Octoberfest suggests that it might be brewed with fall in mind, carrying through some of the darkness or spiciness found in these other fall-specific brews.
It is immediately apparent that the Harpoon Octoberfest is a completely different beer than the Lowenbrau, pouring a deep, coppery red with an active light-brown head that poured thick for all tasters. The smell was malty, grainy, and complex, much like a flavorful brown ale with a suggestion of hop aroma. The initial malt character was subtle and complex with a well balanced, full bodied sweetness. The full body yet smooth character of the beer carries through the entire taste, ending with a nice hop finish that offsets the malt without overpowering it. Carast was initially worried that the dark color would lead to a heavy, over-flavored beer, but was surprised at how easily he was able to "plow right through it," enjoying the smooth flavor over the spicier and sharper character of the Lowenbrau. Jonah Platt-Ross '08 noted that the beer drank like a glass of milk, smooth and almost creamy. It is hard to say exactly how closely this beer mirrors a traditional Marzen without an actual comparison, yet the color and richness are what could be expected. At 5.5 percent ABV, this beer is also fairly strong but drinkable, making it equally as adept at handling the needs of any Oktoberfest celebrator. Overall, I would tend to side with the Harpoon because of its darker, smoother character.