In spite of Frontier Café+Cinema+Gallery's corny motto, "Come in...Go beyond," the aim of this multipurpose space is sincere: to provide the Brunswick community with "food, film, and art inspired by the world."
The café opened just over a month ago, but is already quite popular with Bowdoin students, senior citizens, and young mothers alike.
The space itself is excellent?a large, open, loft-like area with lots of blond wood and big windows, a clean, modern open kitchen, and spaces for film screenings and art shows right inside of Fort Andross, with lofty views of the Androscoggin River. The menu offers standard fare?panini, soups, salads, and meat and cheese platters?and the portions are not overly generous, but Frontier Café redeems itself by serving simple, fresh, flavorful food that does not disappoint.
High quality ingredients prevail in the selection of panini sandwiches?a ham and cheese sandwich becomes something else entirely when the cheese is Gruyere, the ham is top-notch, and the sandwich is served with tomatoes and Dijon mustard on perfect slabs of focaccia. While the roasted beet panini could have done with twice as much whipped goat cheese, the peppery arugula and earthy beets on crusty country bread are flavorful and satisfying.
The tomato basil soup was forgettable and reminded us more of pasta sauce than what a good tomato soup should be, but the real sleeper hit on Frontier Café's menu is the Winter Luxury Pumpkin soup, a smooth, light, yet creamy concoction that felt just right on a cold, rainy autumn day.
For something more substantial, the Marketplates (cold cut platters) allow you to make your own sandwich. The Italian has prosciutto, Tuscan salami, tomatoes, mozzarella, olives, artichokes, pesto, roasted red peppers, and focaccia; the French offers ham, p?té, Cornichons, olives, mustard, brie, tomatoes, and baguette. The Middle Eastern has feta cheese, Dolmas, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, preserved lemons, minted yogurt, and garlic naan.
A comprehensive tea list and various imported sodas are available in addition to beer, wine, and coffee, and a variety of baked goods and old-fashioned candy are on hand for customers with a sweet tooth. Though the food is delicious?and it is?what sets Frontier Café apart from the pack is its rotating film screenings and art exhibits. This month's art show is titled?surprise?"Go Beyond...A Visual Journey," with photographs by National Geographic photographer David McLain. Frontier Café hopes it will become "very much an evolving, creative canvas for visual storytelling...[and] a vibrant opportunity to exhibit contemporary visual stories produced collaboratively with storytellers from Maine and around the world." The most recent screening was the Palestinian film "My Friend, My Enemy." The director was on hand to present the movie personally.
Owner Michael Gilroy created the space with the aim of "creat[ing] a special kind of meeting place reminiscent of a traveler's crossroads?where stories, ideas, and culture interact in a rich and dynamic environment."
Time will tell whether he will succeed in achieving this idealistic goal, but the convergence of stimulating cultural events and gourmet food will keep travelers and locals alike coming back for more.
The rotating schedule of events changes frequently, so be sure to call or check the Web site (www.explorefrontier.com) for the latest film and art openings or sign up to receive the email newsletter. Frontier Café+Cinema+Gallery is at 14 Maine St. in Fort Andross Mill 3. Closed Sundays.