No wizardry in Magic Hole I.P.A.

Beer Fever with Weaver: Give thanks for Pumpkinhead Ale

Shipyard Pumpkinhead Ale: $7.99 for a six-pack at Hannaford Last Thanksgiving, I had the unique pleasure of visiting my girlfriend in Prague, where we were treated to an incredible traditional Thanksgiving spread complete with an enormous turkey and all the fixings. Surprisingly enough, however, it was not the food that made this Thanksgiving so distinctive and unforgettable?it was the beer.

Beer Fever with Weaver: Old Hen: as bad as it sounds

Morland Brewing Co.'s Old Speckled Hen?$10.25 for a six-pack at Uncle Tom's I just finished an exam. I handed in a paper yesterday and I have a quiz tomorrow. I also need to figure out what I am doing with my life after Bowdoin, and fast. Maybe I should go to the library or the CPC? I think instead I'll go to Uncle Tom's and revolutionize the way beer critics everywhere write their weekly reviews. I wasn't able to hold my traditional beer-tasting session last night (I told you, it's been a rough week). So instead, I'm going to go make a spontaneous and ill-informed beer purchase and write about my new beer while I try it for the first time. This is going to be ingenious. Then again, this could also suck.

Beer Fever with Weaver

No wizardry in Magic Hole I.P.A.

This piece represents the opinion of the author:

Alex Weaver

Columnist

September 22, 2006

Kennebec River Brewery Magic Hole I.P.A: $7.99 for a six-pack at Hannaford.

As I scoured rack after mouthwatering rack for this week's beer of choice, an enticing label caught my eye. Most of the time, an interesting logo, bottle, or packaging is all it takes to pique my interest. Hell, I'll try anything once. When the label happens to feature a fearless rafting group heading into a huge swell beneath a snow-capped mountain and a grinning sun with arms pointing at a mug of heady amber ale, well, I'm as good as sold. Couple the label with the location of the beer's manufacturer?Kennebec River Brewery?and you've got yourself the potential for a great new local beer. Now, if only the beer tasted as good as its packaging looked...

Before we delve into the particulars, I think it is necessary to clear up the name of this week's brew before anyone's mind wanders past the brink of safe retrieval. Unfortunately, the "Magic Hole" is not some newly discovered orifice on the human body down which you can pour a beer to feel its effects more quickly without the morning consequences (though I've heard 12 ounces down the ear is as good as a keg stand). Quite the contrary, this term refers to something one encounters while engaging in an active and healthy outdoor activity?hardly your average night out.

The back of each bottle states the following: "So named for its ability to make rafts disappear, Magic Hole is the Kennebec River's biggest challenge. Dedicated to those with a 'GO FOR IT' attitude, this bold unrepentant ale is liberally hopped with premier East Kent Goldings...HOLD ON!" Clearly, Kennebec River Brewery has adopted an extreme rafter's attitude in creating this ale. The only thing I'm holding onto is my hat. As your standard ale, Magic Hole wouldn't be half bad, but for an India Pale Ale, it just doesn't measure up.

Now don't get me wrong. Magic Hole I.P.A is not a bad tasting beer. In fact, those who shared a bottle with me seemed to generally enjoy it. After her first sip, Boston beauty Liz Laurits noted with elation: "Oooh, that's good." While this is not the most eloquent review for an English major, her point is well-taken. Magic Hole I.P.A. pours a rather thin penny amber with about an inch of porous, creamy head. Its aroma is mildly sweet and fruity with the hint of caramel. Its flavor is thin and earthy, and despite dwindling on the way down, it does finish off somewhat bitter. On the scale of one to lip-puckering (10), I would say it is only about a four. Sounds bearable, right?

The point I am trying to make is, though not bad-tasting, Magic Hole I.P.A. does not live up to its name. I.P.A.s are typically pale in complexion with a high alcohol content and a body characterized by more hops than malt. With regards to the first two criteria, Magic Hole fares quite well. But when it comes to the hops, it just doesn't seem to compare. Now I'm no hops expert (Natty Lite has those right?), but compared to other I.P.A.'s I've had, like Stone or Harpoon, the flavor, body, and bitterness of Magic Hole falls notably short of expectations. Or, as one review on ratebeer.com so aptly asserted: "Overall, this beer is perfectly drinkable, but it's nothing special."

I think in the end, "nothing special" goes a long way in summarizing my experience with Magic Hole I.P.A. If you're looking for a tasty new local six-pack, give it a whirl. But don't pop the top expecting to find your standard I.P.A. After all, lots of beers are "drinkable," but few are truly great.

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