Waves crash against the brown rocky coast sending white spray straight up to the gray sky. Visibility on the ocean is low as the salt-water-taffy-green sea is barely distinguishable in pelting rain and overwhelming fog.
The only recognizable stimuli are a horn blasting across the sea every 30 seconds and a blinding light that rotates 80 feet up in the air. Both of these warnings are sent from Portland Head Light, the oldest functioning lighthouse in Maine.
One of Maine's most photographed structures, Portland Head was built in 1791 by the Massachusetts Legislature in order to protect sailors entering Portland near Cape Elizabeth. The white light tower was joined by the distinctive red-roofed keeper's quarters in 1816.
The lighthouse stands on a large, undeveloped portion of land that was used as Cape Elizabeth's first military fortification called Fort Williams. The fort was purchased by the town of Cape Elizabeth in 1964 and has since become a park that is open daily to visitors. The park is home to Fort Williams in addition to Portland Head Light and the small museum there.
Despite the driving rain and whipping wind, Fort Williams Park is not entirely deserted. In a parking lot that will be packed with the first signs of summer, two cars sit with their engines running and front windshields facing the ocean.
One woman sits gazing at the wind-tossed lobster buoys while slowly eating her lunch in peace. More curious, the other driver ventures out of the warmth of his SUV to scan the beach for treasures washed up by the crashing surf.
This is not the weather of a sunny day in July when visitors come to the park seeking the cool breeze off the ocean to combat the oppressive heat. On this day the wind is cold and taxing, but it is still easy to imagine the possibilities available on a warm, clear day.
The shoreline around the lighthouse is inaccessible and rocky, but easily enjoyed from adjacent fields that expand throughout the 90-acre park. These mowed plains are perfect for relaxing in the sun, flying a kite, or playing catch. Picnic tables and pavilions are readily available throughout the park for visitors wishing to spend the day at Portland Head Light.
In addition to the typical facets of a park, Fort Williams is an interesting historic site because of the remaining structures open for public exploration. Two aged lookout points created in the 1800s provide access to sweeping views of the water as well as offering a panoramic view of Fort Williams Park. Located nearby the batteries is Goddard Mansion, whose stone walls still stand erect on a hill. Although tourists are banned from entering the hollow structure, it continues to memorialize Cape Elizabeth's past.
Sightseers also have access to the Museum at Portland Head Light between Memorial Day and Labor Day. This award-winning museum features displays about the history of the lighthouse and, more generally, lighthouses in Maine. Since the museum is in the former light keeper's quarters, it also allows the public to understand the life of the people who took care of the lighthouse in the early twentieth century.
The variety of organized activities available during the summer at Portland Head Light is greater than these during the winter months; however, this should not discourage the creative visitor. The chilly Maine weather transforms Fort Williams into a place entirely different from that in the summer. In order to truly appreciate the beauty of Cape Elizabeth's shoreline, it is necessary to visit in both rain and shine, in both balmy and wintry weather.