Though Thomas Wolfe once famously said, “You can’t go home again,” he said nothing about going back to Hannaford. And so we have returned, Bildungsroman-ed by Bertani, to the familiar embrace of Maine’s favorite grocery chain. After our extended hiatus, we knew we had to think big. Our eyes instantly lit upon a vessel of prodigious heft, one which Robo Tavel ’16 would later describe as “looking like the kind of bottle you’d find at the bottom of a shipwreck.” Carlo Rossi Burgundy, nestled unassumingly on the bottom shelf of the wine aisle, dared us to investigate whether or not quality and quantity are always mutually exclusive.


Let’s first crunch the numbers. Measuring a sizable 4 L, the Burgundy was far and away the largest bottle either of your esteemed critics have ever purchased. While total jug cost (TJC) exceeded our usual cap of $10, when adjusting for cost per bottle (CPB), the $15 we spent left us with an adjusted cost of $2.81 per 750 mL, the average volume of a standard wine bottle. Furthermore, when accounting for the cost per drink (assuming a bottle contains five standard drinks), Carlo Rossi delivers an unprecedented value of $0.56 per drink and is bested only by Franzia’s offering of 5 L at the same $15 price point. When converted into real dollars, adjusted for inflation over time, the overwhelming value of Carlo Rossi fosters true wine democratization, portending Bernie Sanders’ socialist utopia.


In light of our spectacular savings, we treated ourselves to proper drinking vessels. We are proud to announce Libbey wine glasses as the unofficial stemware of Bowdoin wine criticism. Truly, Libbey offers the rare combination of style, grace, and budget-consciousness that would appeal to all college students. [Note: representatives of Libbey seeking official sponsorship may contact Will or Martin directly.]


After pouring our Burgundy into these new chalices, we realized that, in heretofore using Mason jars, we had seriously hindered our ability to evaluate that most crucial facet of a wine’s quality, the legs. With our new, greatly enhanced powers of leg deduction, we took our first sips.


What should we have expected of a wine named after a region in France, yet developed in California by a man with an Italian name? A wine that has no visible vintage, yet guarantees a 40-year history of consistent quality? This geographic and temporal potpourri alienated us from our previously held conceptions of what constitutes a wine. Curious for more information about our Burgundy, we embarked upon a quick YouTube search, which unearthed an antiquated advertisement for the wine, in which the man himself claimed, “I like talking about Carlo Rossi Burgundy, but I’d rather drink it."


Even as Carlo continues to lurk in the shadows of our collective unconscious, we must regretfully disagree with his appraisal. Burgundy’s parodic “wine taste” left us torn between our desire to spread the gospel of value and our moral aversion to actually calling this a wine. Initial flavors were strong enough, but quickly dissipated into a mist that made us forget—by the time we finished our quaffs—what we were drinking. We felt as if we were drowning in a small ocean of tasteless, indistinct liquid. Clearly the appeal of Carlo Rossi lay more in the sui generis spectacle of drinking from an oversized receptacle, rather than in any inherent gustatory merit. Despite our best efforts, at time of writing we find ourselves still saddled with a remaining three liters to dispose of responsibly.


Additional Notes:

Tonight’s Soundtrack: Hall & Oates

Will: “Let’s play Moneyball with this wine.”

Martin: “It looks like you are swaddling a baby when you carry this jug.”


Nose: 1.75/5

Body: 3/5

Mouthfeel: 2/5

Legs: 3.5/5

Taste: 1.5/5