Miles Berry

After sitting quiet and empty for several months, the former home of Scarlet Begonias in Brunswick Station was bursting with life again on Wednesday night, under new ownership and a new name: Pomelia. Just over a week after opening, nearly every table in the restaurant was occupied and the small dining room was bubbling with noise as diners ate, drank and conversed.

Pomelia, which began serving the public on January 28, offers up a menu inspired by all aspects of traditional Sicilian cuisine: fresh, citrusy salads, oven-baked focaccia pizzas, a selection of authentic pasta dishes and street-food sandwiches. According to Chelsea Bickford, who co-owns the eatery with husband and head chef Tony Bickford, it’s been an overwhelming hit so far.

“It’s been going really well, [we’ve been] a lot busier than anticipated,” Bickford said in an interview with the Orient. “The first thing we’ve done is hire more this week—I think we have six new hires.… It’s been a great reception.”

Coming into a Brunswick food scene already featuring multiple Italian or specifically pizza restaurants—such as Brickyard Hollow, The Great Impasta or Enoteca Athena—the Bickfords decided to narrow in on Sicilian food as a way of carving out a niche. The name Pomelia showcases that influence, referencing the flower commonly found on the island of Sicily while paying a floral homage to Scarlet Begonias.

“We wanted to do something different,… and Sicilian cuisine is just interesting because it’s influenced by so many different cultures. You get Mediterranean flavors and North African flavors,” Bickford said. “Approachable—but different and fun.”

The menu showcases that culinary and cultural diversity—ranging from standard Italian fare like arancini, pork-based meatballs or pasta alla norma to more eye-catching options like the chickpea fritters or a Trapanese shrimp couscous in a tomato saffron broth.

“We were going with pizza, pasta and street food. We had the idea where people could come in and share—we have serving spoons and tongs so you could try a bunch of different things,” Bickford said. “One of the customer favorites for lunch so far has been the Calabrian hot honey chicken sandwich.”

Pomelia’s atmosphere also matches the eclectic mix of casual and refined found on the menu; the owners intend it to be a relaxed spot for a quick meal but still classy enough for a date night.

During the period between closing on the space in November and opening in late January—a relatively quick turnaround for the restaurant world—the Bickfords and their staff altered the former Scarlet Begonias dining room to fit their vision for Pomelia.

“We did a lot to change it and make it airy and open and brighter than it previously was,” Chelsea Bickford said. “[But] we wanted to keep that casualness.”

For the Bickfords, much of what they’ve done with Pomelia has been informed by their previous restaurant experience in Maine—in terms of the menu and laid-back ambiance of their new business, as well as how they balance their work and family life while working long hours. Most recently, they ran Little Village Bistro, a similarly Italian-influenced establishment in Wiscasset which closed in 2021 after seven years of operating.

“We closed that business in ’21 because we have children,” Bickford said. “This is an easier concept [for our family]—not to step away from, but to be able to manage and have some time away from it.”

In addition to being a better fit for their family, Bickford noted that Pomelia’s location in downtown Brunswick was especially enticing.

“[Brunswick] is just a great community, and this space in particular—we have the school right there. We have parking, but we’re still in the Maine Street area. We’re right across from the park where there’s a bunch of summer events.… The possibilities are literally endless,” Bickford explained.

Cora Baxter ’25, who ate at Pomelia on Wednesday night, mentioned that the eatery’s welcoming feel was one of its strong suits.

“They’ve really transformed the space. It feels like its own atmosphere.… It feels warm, bright,” Baxter said.

“I had the [Spicy Ragú with Salsiccia]—I would highly recommend. It’s great to have more restaurants in Brunswick,” Baxter added.

Looking forward, Bickford said that she hopes to expand the business to include morning hours and provide coffee and pastries for commuters hopping on trains at the Amtrak station right outside Pomelia. She also hopes more Bowdoin community members will continue to visit the restaurant.

“I think we’re really approachable for both students and faculty and staff. It’s great hospitality, but a casual feel. You’re in a really nice restaurant but don’t feel like you have to be stuffy,” Bickford said.